Five of Queen Elizabeth II’s most iconic outfits – from new royal exhibit
Five of Queen Elizabeth II’s most iconic outfits – from new royal exhibit
Queen Elizabeth II, a figure of global renown, cultivated a style that was both understated and unmistakable. Her wardrobe, characterized by restraint and tradition, became a symbol of enduring presence across her 70-year reign. From the refined elegance of her ceremonial gowns to the simple charm of her everyday ensembles, her fashion choices reflected a blend of practicality and symbolic meaning. A recent exhibition at The King’s Gallery in Buckingham Palace highlights this legacy, featuring 200 items spanning her 10 decades of public life and celebrating the centenary of her birth on 10 April.
The Quintessential British Ensemble
One of the most emblematic outfits in the display is a Harris tweed jacket paired with a Balmoral Tartan skirt, first worn by the Queen in the 1950s. Designed by her long-time dressmaker Norman Hartnell, this combination became a recurring element in her off-duty attire. While its muted tones and modest design suited her love for outdoor activities, royal fashion expert Marian Kwei emphasizes its deeper significance.
“The fabrics used were intended to ‘promote British fashion, excellence and production,’ says Kwei. And woven into the outfit’s feminine cut and low-key tones are connotations of ‘stability, dependence, soft power.’ It’s ‘I’m in charge,’ without being too loud about it.”
The Coronation Dress: A Symbol of Unity
Another standout piece is her 1953 Coronation dress, also crafted by Hartnell. Made from Kent silk, it features gold bugle beads, diamantés, and pearls in intricate embroidery. Beyond its craftsmanship, the dress carries powerful symbolism, as Kwei explains.
“Her sartorial choice was ‘really an indication of the kind of Queen we had and how she reigned,’ adds Kwei. The gown’s floral emblems represent the four UK nations, with additional motifs from Commonwealth countries like Canada and India.”
A Divisive Statement: The 1957 Green Gown
Among the featured items is a sleeveless green dress from 1957, worn during a state banquet for US President Dwight Eisenhower at the British Embassy in Washington DC. While its design is celebrated, its meaning sparks debate. Exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut acknowledges its ambiguity.
“Whatever the intention, we know it was worn during a US visit intended to strengthen transatlantic ties during the Cold War. Kwei suggests the Queen may have aimed to subtly align with American culture, noting the ‘apple crisp green’ color’s association with the ‘Big Apple’ and American Pie.”
Author and fashion analyst Elizabeth Holmes highlights how the Queen used her attire to redefine her image early in her reign. “She used her clothing to ‘establish herself in a new way,’ presenting a glamorous young woman on a global stage dominated by men,” she observes. Hartnell’s designs, often emphasizing a fitted waist and full skirt, “accentuated her femininity rather than attempting to mask it,” Holmes adds.
